FEBRUARY 2025 - MÂCON
Mâcon, Here We Come…
It is February here in Chicago and the city is experiencing a true Midwestern Winter this season. There has been some snow, but more profoundly, these brutally cold days that have extended into weeks of negative windchill temperatures. This type of extended cold weather definitely takes a toll on the mind and body. It has a way of zapping one’s energy, sending messages to and from the brain and body, pleading for reactionary, protective measures to ensure its survival until the Spring.
At Red & White we often discuss seasonally appropriate wines. What do we desire at specific times of the year, largely based on weather and the length of the days, the amount of sunshine or clouds, what we want to cook, etc, etc. In discussing this month’s wine club, we came to the conclusion that we were ready for a premature Spring, so to speak, in regards to what we may be craving in terms of wines for the table and sharing with friends. As we search for an opportunity to allow our minds and palates to venture away from the chilling seasonal cold, we have landed in a region within Burgundy that may just allow for such a respite. That region is Mâcon.
Mâcon is located at the far southern end of Burgundy and is essentially a gateway into Beaujolais. The vineyard holdings in AOC Mâcon cover roughly 3500 hectares with its soil mainly composed of clay in the north and silica and granite in the south. There are two valleys in the region that divide it west (Grosne) to east (Saône). The vines in Mâconnais greatly benefit from an oceanic climate that is rooted from the south, meaning more sunshine and less rain. (Although, in recent years there has been a climactic shift here too.) The region’s soils contain marl, clay, sand and stones, with limestone having a great presence. The Cistercian monks established vineyards here when the Abbey of Cluny was created, in 909AD, by Guillaume 1st who was the count of Mâcon. Although, there is record that the Celts planted vines and made wines prior to being conquered by the Romans, over 2000 years ago. The appellation produces almost entirely Chardonnay for white wines and Pinot Noir and Gamay for reds. For this month’s wine club we are excited to offer three individual vignerons who exemplify what Mâcon has the potential to offer, both in value and in sustenance.
Domaine Guillot-Broux
Mâcon Rouge 2021
gamay
Jean-Gérard Guillot founded the estate in 1978. His sons, Emmanuel and Patrice now run all operations and look after the 17 hectares of total vines which are situated in three villages - Cruzille, Grévilly and Chardonnay. Their grandparents Pierre and Jeannine Guillot established the first ever organic vineyard in Burgundy in 1954 and were incredibly influential in establishing the first organic association of Burgundy. Within the village of Cruzille they farm a small plot of vines that are planted to Gamay, utilizing the same practices in the cellar as our other two offerings, first fermenting in stainless vats and then transferring the wines into old barrels for malolactic fermentation and aging before bottling. The wine is lithe and expressive, showing savory fruit which is both graceful and buoyant.
Clos des Rocs is located in the tiny sub-appellation of Pouilly-Loché, where there are only 32 hectares planted to vines. Farmer and winemaker Olivier Giroux is committed to organic practices with no use of chemicals whatsoever. He believes in farming through observation and adapting when necessary to aid the soil and vines in producing the best fruit possible. In Mâcon-Loché he farms a 1.6 hectare plot of 40 year old Chardonnay vines ‘En Près Forêt’, the soils being made up of a mixture of sand and limestone with pebbles throughout. He prefers long, slow presses and ferments in stainless steel before transferring some of the wine into large (500L) used oak barrels. The fruit is generous, it possesses elegance with pronounced salinity and will evolve beautifully for some years in the bottle.
Clos des Rocs
Mâcon-Loché ‘En Près Forêt’ 2023
chardonnay
Dominique’s son Romain is now overseeing all operations in the vines and cellar. The estate was established in 1993 and has always practiced organic farming. In 2003 they received certification and since then have greatly incorporated biodynamic treatments with the soils. In Mâcon-Chaintré they farm a 1.5 hectare plot ‘Les Serreuxdières’ that faces east and contains vines which were planted back in 1935. Predominantly clay and limestone soils which offer incredible purity, finesse and sophistication in the finished wine. They also utilize a mixture of stainless steel for fermentations, followed by aging in large, old oak barrels and demi-muids.