MARCH 2025 - LE SOLEIL AU PRINTEMPS
After a successful, albeit, exhausting week of Third Coast Soif, we are pleased to see the signs of Spring abound. Sure, we may still receive a dusting of snow before Summer arrives, but that has always been part of the landscape living in Chicago. It will not keep us from yearning for the rebirth that we look forward to every year at this time, such as the perennials sprouting new life, buds on trees and bushes and vines showing signs of opening. And certainly the warmer weather, which we all welcome, so that we may bask in the sun and enjoy the space outdoors at our wine bar, sipping from a glass and munching on a new snack from the kitchen, whether that be a lamb tartare or a hamachi crudo or a roasted beet creation from our chef, Charlie. Oh, the ideal wine bar vibes…
Regarding this month’s wine club, (which we thank you for your patience on the delayed release), we are delighted to have a few new discoveries from just outside of Bordeaux and also one iconic property in Cassis, Provence adjacent to the Mediterranean.
DOMAINE MAURO GUICHENEY
Corine Mauro and her partner Didier live and farm roughly 30 hectares of vines just outside the village of Villeneuve de Duras in the department of Lot-et-Garonne, within the AOC of Côtes de Duras. It is on the edge of the Garonne department (AOC Bordeaux) and is due east of the city of Bordeaux roughly 60km away. The two appellations do share some similarities- the grapes that are planted and the clay-limestone makeups of the soil. On the contrary, Côtes de Duras is much hillier and experiences more diurnal temperature differences and weather extremes than its highly acclaimed neighbor. There are two rivers that essentially create natural boundaries, the Dordogne to the north, and the Garonne to the south. The appellation began in 1937, much earlier than most in this region. But it has always been a quiet, tranquil respite, as Corine has remarked, reminding one more of “une petite Toscane” than the gentle, rolling landscape of Bordeaux.
The vineyards at Domaine Mauro Guicheney are planted on south and southwest facing slopes. The white varietals include Sauvignon Blanc & Sauvignon Gris with a small amount of Gros Manseng, Ugni Blanc and Chenin Blanc. For the reds, they rely mostly on Merlot with small quantities of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Malbec. The domaine received organic certification in 2011 and biodynamic certification in 2020. The vineyards are teeming with life, rosebushes that flank each row of vines and various trees that are interspersed throughout.
There is a deep connection to nature here, one that Corine and Didier have continued to develop over the years. Harvests are always done by hand, and the fermentations always begin with native yeasts. They utilize mostly stainless steel for the fermentations, but just recently have been experimenting with a touch of clay Amphorae vessels. The wines sit on their lees generally for 12 months, allowing for slow, methodical progress with the secondary fermentation and when finished, they are neither fined nor filtered with the only addition to their wines being a slight touch of SO2, only if they feel it necessary. These are carefully crafted wines made in direct correlation to the thoughtful farming practices that Corine and Didier have mastered over the years.
À l’Abri du Monde Blanc 2019
70% Sauvignon Blanc and 30% Sauvignon Gris harvested from hilltop parcels with poor limestone soil. Focused, pure, and chiseled, the minerality and terroir providing the primary lead with the fruit components playing a more supportive role for the wine. It is textural and aromatic with refined acidity that provides the structure and backbone.
À l’Abri du Monde Rouge 2020
Predominantly Merlot with touches of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and a small percentage of Malbec. No additions whatsoever. The plum scented black fruits are evocative, with finely integrated tannins allowing for a crescendo on the palate to match the supple and vibrant fruit profile.
DOMAINE DU BAGNOL
Domaine du Bagnol happens to be one of the oldest domaines in the area of Cassis. It takes its name from the district where it is located and there are archives going back to 1430 mentioning the vines here in Bagnol. The first actual vines planted here date back to the 12th century. In 1867 the first formal trace of the property of the Marquis de Fesques, called the Bagnol, appeared. And in 1936, the Cassis vineyards gained AOC classification, one of the first areas to officially do so in France.
In this small maritime village in Provence, Domaine du Bagnol is one of only 10 estates in the AOC Cassis appellation. The estate was managed in the 1980’s and 1990’s by Claire Lefevre, an astute vigneronne who introduced her American importer Neal Rosenthal to the charm and allure of this picturesque fishing village. After her passing in the 90’s, the estate began a revitalization in 1997, when Cassis native Jean-Louis Genovesi took over.
From the outset, Jean-Louis has set out to improve the quality of the wines, implementing subtle infrastructure improvements and shining new light on the domaine. His son Sébastien joined the project in 2003 after completing some viticultural/eonological studies, and his daughter Lisa joined in 2017. They have set out to rejuvenate Domaine du Bagnol, bringing a different breadth and freshness to the land and the wines, with the hopes of preserving the rich, authentic terroir so special to this tiny appellation.
They have always set out to farm and ferment as naturally as possible. The conversion to organic farming began in 2011 with the philosophy that by improving the health and vitality in the vines is the clear way to not only preserve the balance in nature, but to exemplify and enhance the elegance in the wines. They do everything in accordance with the Lunar cycles, but stop short of calling themselves biodynamic farmers. In 2017, Sébastien’s sister Lisa has also joined forces. Their enthusiasm and deep convictions have led them to undertake ambitious endeavors to not only preserve the health and environment with the land and soil, but to also strive in making the wines more compelling than they have ever been. It has been a remarkably singular success that humbly has provided others with the notion that this seaside village with limestone terroir has the ability to make brilliant, gleaming wines of tremendous energy and purity.
Domaine du Bagnol Cassis Rosé 2023
Mostly comprised of Grenache, with a bit of Cinsault and Mourvèdre as well. It is a direct press rosé that exudes incredible texture, purity of fruit, the terroir and the intensity of the sun and sea that Cassis offers. The wine sees a tiny amount of SO2 at bottling.